From Rotterdam via the Kinderdijk to the Biesbosch: A micro bike-packing trip

It was time to shake up my daily routines again! Too long in a steady routine, and the life in the 9-to-5 rhythm starts to feel a bit too tight, too predictable. Don’t get me wrong, I appreciate my daily life, but I need a regular change of scenery. To get out, breathe in new air and see where my curiosity takes me. That’s where these little getaways or so-called micro-adventures come in!

So, I packed up my camping gear, loaded up the bike, and set off on a three-day solo journey from Rotterdam, biking along the Maas, past Kinderdijk’s iconic windmills, and eventually gliding into the calm beauty of the Biesbosch. It was exactly what I needed — a balm for the soul, and a reminder that adventure doesn’t have to be far away or grand to be meaningful.

Sunny break along the Maas

Starting at Rotterdam Central

The trip started on a sunny Friday morning at Rotterdam Central, biking past the iconic Cube Houses and the old harbour to reach the Maas. The newness and energy of this city I rarely visit and the spaciousness of the Maas, made me already feel so excited for the day ahead. But first, I had to buy some essentials that I forgot to pack:  a face mask, ear plugs and a warm water bottle as the estimated night temperature was 6 degrees. Then I was ready to make my way along the river. I had a few destinations in mind, and decided to let my intuition guide me. This is the beauty of travelling without a plan; deciding moment to moment what you're up to based on the opportunities that you are presented with. A gift that is hard to experience if you have your life too fully planned.

One of the many water bus stops along the river

Biking along the Maas

Along the Maas you pass a couple of villages that are all set on or below the dykes that I biked along. In one of the first villages, I stumbled upon a small market. I picked up some fresh bread and Mediterranean dips, then found a sunny spot to sit and devour it. I also have a habit of searching for “tea gardens” on maps — they’re often cozy, tucked-away places surrounded by greenery. For my second stop, I found one that was perfect: a lovely little garden café called "Onder de pannen" where I treated myself to a pot of tea and a slice of strawberry cake.

As you can tell, I take it slow. I stop often. I’m not the kind of person who plans out exactly where I’ll end up each day, or how many kilometers I need to cover. For me, it’s not about distance or hitting goals. Taking it easy, exploring freely, going off-course if something catches my eye. That’s the whole point.

Kinderdijk

Kinderdijk, a UNESCO world heritage site

I had seen photos of Kinderdijk so many times in my life, but I'd never actually visited. So when I realised I was going to pass it to get to Dordrecht, I got excited! I had no idea there were 19 windmills all together, and that you can just bike or wander right past them for free. The windmills were built in the 18th century to pump water out of the polders to keep the area dry. There's also a museum if you want to dive deeper into its history, and a hop-on hop-off boat for those that are less mobile. It was crowded, but still very manageable. All in all a very cute sight, and both in winter or summer, worth a visit. Fun fact: According to legend, during a great flood in 1421, a cradle with a baby floated safely to the dike. A cat was seen jumping back and forth in the cradle to keep it balanced. When the cradle reached dry land, the baby was safe and dry — hence the name "Children’s Dike."

Camp site reachable by boat

Nature campsite on an island

After visiting Kinderdijk and biking a total of about 45 km, I made my way to the campsite for the night. It's called Kleine Rug, located just outside of Dordrecht in the heart of the Nieuwe Biesbosch. It's a wonderful place! When you arrive, you simply call the campsite, and they come pick you up by boat — a lovely experience in itself. At the campsite, you can rent kayaks to explore the waterways. I’d also recommend bringing a bike to explore more of the surrounding area and to visit the charming city of Dordrecht.

This is a nature campsite, so it's very lush, with a small forest, a bonfire area, a few hiker’s cabins, wooden log cabins, and even rooms for those who prefer not to camp. It’s best to bring some groceries with you so you can be self-sufficient during your stay. The island itself has no shops, but just a 10-minute walk across the dike opposite the island, there's a shopping center where you can find everything you need.

I spent the evening cooking myself a delicious meal: polenta with a mix of mushrooms, leek, herbs, garlic, and olive oil. I ate it in the garden by the water, listening to a concert of birds whilst watching the sunset. These moments make me feel so content. I decided to head to bed early to avoid the cold night. The next day promised another exciting day ahead: reuniting with friends I know from my master’s program in Berlin. Some I hadn't seen for years.

Sunset near the island

Biesbosch National Park

The next morning, I woke up once again to a bird concert — though, to be fair, also to the sound of shouting children. My friends came to pick me up, and together we set out to explore the Biesbosch by bike. Did you know that the Biesbosch is the largest freshwater tidal area of Europe?! Later, we discovered that we had actually been cycling through the Nieuwe Biesbosch (New Biesbosch), which I imagine is somewhat similar to the main part of the Biesbosch National Park. We learned that the heart of the Biesbosch National Park is only accessible by boat, with very limited bike paths. Since my friends had to return their bikes in the afternoon, we didn’t have enough time to venture deeper into the park by water. Still, even this small taste of the area — with its lush greenery, winding waterways, and peaceful atmosphere — was a beautiful glimpse into a unique natural landscape.

The next morning I set by the water at this cute lunch spot called Zuileshoeve, and read about the rich cultural heritage. Historically, the area was home to farmers who lived in harmony with the changing fresh water tides, relying on fishing, reed-cutting, and peat harvesting as their main livelihoods. It was fascinating to read how, not long ago, people were so much more connected to their surroundings — and to learn about crafts I had never heard of before. With the rise of plastics, many of these traditional crafts faded away. Yet today, we find ourselves surrounded by the growing problem of plastic pollution. I truly hope that we can preserve the knowledge of these old crafts, which were deeply in tune with nature.

Dordrecht

Dordrecht

The afternoon we biked into Dordrecht, to explore further by foot. This town with beautiful canals, historic buildings, and lively squares, had me screaming "cute!!" around every corner. Dordrecht is one of the oldest cities in the Netherlands, rich in history and charm. The old city center is full of monuments, cozy cafés, and museums. Dordrecht played an important role in Dutch trade and religion, and its heritage is still visible today. It's a great place to stroll, enjoy local food, and experience authentic Dutch culture.

A tip for lunch, coffee & cake is this cute Lunchroom with Persian influences called Helena: We first had some middle eastern aperitivo to share. After we had delicious cakes: spinach cake and baklava with pistachio. I'll definitely be back!

You can reach Dordrecht not only by the usual modes of transport, but also by boat! These so-called water buses are convenient, affordable, and a lot of fun. They run frequently between Rotterdam and Dordrecht, stopping at small towns along the river, and also the Kinderdijk. Once they leave the urban areas, they speed up significantly. The full journey takes about 1.5 hours. Click here for the time tables.

Wild camping but legal: Paalkamperen in the Biesbosch

The Netherlands is too crowded and regulated to allow true wild camping, but if you want to experience something close, there's the option of "paalkamperen", which literally translates to "pole camping." These are designated spots in nature where you're allowed to camp for free or very cheap, usually marked by a simple post (paal) and surrounded by minimal facilities — if any.

There’s also two in the Biesbosch, which you can only reach by water, offering a rare chance to spend the night in the wild. I'll definitely be back to take on that adventure!

Final thoughts

This short bike-packing journey from Rotterdam to the Biesbosch was such a rewarding adventure. It reminded me how much beauty lies just outside the city, and how grounding it is to move at the pace of your own heart beat. From urban harbours to peaceful wetlands, and from shared dinners to solo bird concerts, this trip offered the perfect mix of nature, history, and connection. I can’t wait for the next ride.

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Copyright: All photos are my own.