Oh, Northern Norway! 🥰 It's been more than a year since I spent a month in the far North on a small island in the Arctic. Three hours above the Arctic Circle! It was an incredible opportunity that came my way unexpectedly. If you appreciate untouched, awe-inspiring nature, vast open spaces, and a decent café scene, this destination is like paradise. The town where I resided is Tromsø, a university town nestled among fjords. It's a unique place, and I feel grateful to have experienced it a little like a local. From snowy landscapes to dancing green auroras in the night sky, charming coffee shops, sled dogs, and reindeers – here's my 1 month up north in a nutshell!
How did I end up in this place?
Although I had always dreamed of visiting Scandinavia, I had not intended to do so in the near future because of the distance and the expenses involved (which, in hindsight, seems like a silly reason, especially since I had recently discovered that Norway is the second most expensive country in the world, right after Switzerland, a place I've been frequently visiting for the past two years 😆). Anyway! When a Facebook friend mentioned a rabbit-sitting opportunity, I quickly responded, postponed my plan to work as a gardener in Italy, and booked my flights. This is definitely one of the things I value most about a flexible nomadic lifestyle; the ability to seize opportunities as they arise! A week before my arrival, the owner of the rabbits informed me that they had been sold... for a moment I was afraid my plans were doomed. Fortunately, I was still invited to stay in her home, and now that the rabbits were gone, I had even more freedom to explore beyond Tromsø. Lucky me!
When to visit
Tromsø is fascinating all year round. I spent the month of April there. This is an interesting time to visit as it's the transition from winter to spring. The long winter was over, but there was still lots of snow and blizzards to have the "winter wonderland" experience. The first 2 weeks of April, there's also still a good chance to see the northern lights. After mid April it's truly over and you get a glimpse of spring, which was alsooo... well, AMAZING! I'd love to return to experience the arctic during the long and dark winter when the sun doesn't rise. Experiencing midnight sun in summer must also be magical. In December and January the northern lights activity is at its peak, and it's also the time you can go whale watching!
A proper spring day in Tromsø, the light is extraordinary. It was only 5 degrees or so, but everyone was out picknicking and strolling along the seaside.
To do/see
Fjellheisen: The 360 view of Tromsø and its surroundings is magnificent. Take the cable car up (in winter) or get sporty and walk up to enjoy the views. I heard people took up drinks to watch the views with sunset. In case you get thirsty, there's also a simple cafe right outside of the cable car. I've seen people go hiking at the top of the mountain, but make sure to be well prepared as I haven't come across any trails, and the conditions were quite rough. You definitely need ice cleats for example.
Boat tour: There's a ton of tours you can book at the many tourist shops around town. This activity was a highlight! Our tour guide was a biologist and sailor; we learned so much about the arctic, its nature and animals and you get a good feel for the surrounding landscapes. We visited a fishery and tried all kinds of local delights.
Dog sledding: Wow, this was such an impressive experience! Here's a small snippet from my diary: Another dream fulfilled! Having read about the Arctic explorers who have been on long journeys with the dog sled as the main mode of transportation, I had to try this out myself! Whoa, this was much more sporty than I expected. The doggos go completely nuts when they know they’re about to embark on a tour. The noise of 200 howling, restless dogs and my own pack jumping up and down, pulling on the sled, while you don’t know what to expect, got me a little frightened at the start. But once you go — and fall over with the sled a couple of times, you realize the snow is a soft landing and the doggos don’t drag you for meters while you’re hanging on for dear life — I relaxed into it and got the hang of it! It felt a bit like sailing a boat on rough sea at times with all the bumps, counterbalancing the angle of the sled. Great fun!
Northern Lights: There are a dozen tours to take, which are costly and there's no guarantee that you'll actually see the Northern Lights. However, if you've got little time, they are probably your best bet. I was pleasantly surprised to see the Northern Lights simply from my balcony or while taking an evening walk, even when it wasn't pitch dark due to the street lights. My first encounter with the Northern Lights is one of those experiences I will never forget. Read this snippet that I wrote the day after:
I was already in bed when I decided to check facebook one last time before calling it a day — and luckily I did! Someone notified me to have a look outside. I ran out of bed onto the balcony and stood there, first only seeing small glimpses of white/greenish cloud-like shapes. Is this it??!! As I stood there, bare feet nailed to the ground, head facing up, the little glimpses got stronger and spread around the night sky. What unfolded over the next hour was something like a friendly green monster slowly, elegantly dancing around the starry night. I have been lying on the balcony for over an hour with still no socks on, my hands were freezing, I was freezing, but I didn't want to miss a second. A dream come true!!
10 years ago I went to Iceland because NASA said it was THE best time to see the northern lights. The next best time would be in another 50 years. And so I went, every night driving around hoping for a glimpse (and not really knowing what to look for anyway), without success. A little disappointed and with an even stronger longing to see it, I left Iceland. And then yesterday night, there it was, a little out of the blue, and as magical as expected!
Shore strolls: Walk along the waters, gaze at the white fjords, and take a dip in the freezing sea. A great place to walk around and hang out is the beach at Telegrafbukta.
Museums: Definitely visit the Polar museum to learn more about the Arctic lifestyle throughout the history, the seal hunt, and the exploratory missions around the arctic. There's quite some information on Dutch explorers too.
Restaurants: I didn't eat out too often (something related to the prices 😏), but I really enjoyed Art Café Bistro and Maskinverkstedet.
Bars: Bastard bar (occasional live music), Misfit Tiki Bar (cocktails), Verdensteatret (cool cinema and bar with space to dance), Vinsmak (winery with outdoor terrace on the water side – seems to be the after work-hang out for locals). It was quite the shock to me, to see that as reserved Norewegians are during the day, how drunk they get at night, on weekends. I saw ambulances going back and forth around town.
Coffee/breakfast: There's a good cafe scene in Scandinavia, and Tromsø is no different. Here are some favourites: Risø mat og kaffebar (great sourdough bread! awesome cinnamon buns! also check out their other cafe in the center), Svermeri Kafé og Redesign (delicious fish soup, awesome cakes), and the cozy cafe called Smørtorget.
Pust cafe: This place is a gem, and deserves a specific mention as it's much more than a cafe. It’s a community which organises lots of events, from yoga to drawing "get-togethers" to live music to club nights. Draws a student crowd and beyond. Super friendly staff.
Sauna Pust: Part of the Pust community is this lovely sauna on a boat in the harbour. Warm up and afterwards jump into the very refreshing arctic waters!
Langlaufen: All throughout the islands there are beautiful langlauf routes and there are several occasions where you can rent equipment. I'd recommend to take an introduction tour when you've never been. Even though I can ski, this was harder and more scary than expected. Going down hill through those trails, with no idea how to brake or get away... 😨 Funnily, I was applauded at by locals in their 70s for which it was the easiest leisure activity.
Swimming pool: Oh my, if I'd live in Tromsø, for sure I'd have a membership to this sports/swimming complex with a hot pool outside overlooking the forest and snowy mountains. So relaxing!
Visit the surroundings
I had a lovely day trip to Sommarøy, an island located about 35 km from Tromsø. The island has white beaches, crystal clear waters and stunning views in every direction, making it an ideal spot for hiking. Additionally, there is a hotel where you can enjoy a nice lunch.
Another enjoyable activity is taking a 40-minute bus ride to the shop and restaurant Bryggejentene AS, offering a fun way to explore the natural surroundings of Tromsø.
I also went 2 nights to Kautokeino, which felt pretty isolated. The journey there, involving several buses and boats was, for lacking better words, insanely beautiful. The town itself, which is very spread out, isn't particularly cozy or pretty. I went there to learn more about the Sámi, the Indigenous peoples inhabiting the region of Sápmi, which today encompasses large northern parts of Norway, Sweden, Finland, and of the Kola Peninsula in Russia. The Sámi are best known for their semi-nomadic reindeer herding lifestyle. In Kautokeino, there is a small museum showcasing the history and daily life of the Sámi people.
I didn't make my way to Lofoten this time, as I felt too short on time. I cannot wait to visit this area.
Culture
Before my arrival, people told me that Norwegians tend to be quite reserved. They said that when passing someone on the street, they might not greet or make eye contact. Eager to break this stereotype, I looked forward to warmly greet everyone with a big HELLO! As it turned out, the experience wasn't too different from what I'm used to in the Netherlands: we also rarely greet eachtoher, unless it's a smaller town. Most of the people I interacted with were actually foreigners, many of them Russians. I had very limited interactions with Norwegians. However, I did have the pleasure of meeting an 80-year-old local, a lady who had such a vibrant youthful energy. We engaged in deep conversations about life, growing up, and living in Tromsø, as well as the changes she had witnessed in her lifetime. It was truly a priceless experience. Additionally, I had the opportunity to meet with a woman working at the university, originally from Romania but over 20 years living in Norway. She shared insightful perspectives on cultural disparities, the Balkans, the lack of Western knowledge about Eastern Europe, and the books she had authored. This aspect of traveling, engaging with individuals from diverse backgrounds and cultures, is something I deeply cherish.
Groceries
This shouldn't have been a surprise, but somehow I didn't aniticpate it: there is not much fresh produce in the supermarkets. Most food is frozen, and there are especially large sections of meat and fish. And to give you an idea, an avodaco costs like 3 euros! It made me realise that we are lucky back home with the amount of fresh produce and the moderate climate which allows us to have a veggie garden. Also, I was surprised to see how extensive the sweets section is.
Fun fact
We all know Norway is crazy expensive. There are however two things cheaper in Norway: electricity and... wool! Norway has a rich tradition of wool production, and high-quality wool garments, such as sweaters, socks, and outdoor clothing, are often more affordable. I found it fascinating to discover that the distinct patterns on these items indicate the wearer's place of origin. This tradition originated from a time when fishermen would perish far from home, allowing those who found them to determine their place of origin. Pretty intriguing, isn't it?!
Book tips
If you want to read a funny book about Scandinavian culture, I enjoyed this one: The almost nearly perfect people: behind the myth of the Scandinavian Utopia by Michael Booth. I also enjoyed learning about Erling Kagge; the famed Norwegian explorer, writing about mindfulness, philosophy, and summiting Everest.
A heart full of Arctic memories
Staying one month up north has been an unforgettable experience. This trip has not only enriched my understanding of the Arctic but also rekindled my sense of wonder and appreciation for the natural beauty that I feel so connected to. Tromsø has left an indelible mark on my heart, and a strong longing to explore more of Scandinavia.
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